Homemade Gefilte Fish

Gefilte fish — blended carp, whitefish, and pike, seasoned with onion and matzo meal, poached and chilled — is the dish that anchors the Jewish holiday table, the one that arrives with horseradish (red or white, your choice) and signals that the serious food is about to begin. Sable’s makes it homemade at their Upper East Side counter, the way Danny and Kenny Sze learned a proper appetizing shop should after 12 years at Zabar’s.